Compost Happens

When I first moved here, there was a small trash pit in my yard. A trash pit is a hole in the ground where you throw all your trash, and then burn it periodically. Everyone has one here. So the first thing I did was to only throw food, plants and other decomposable stuff there, and make it into a compost pile.

I've had some challenges with the compost pile, like other people burning it, and then having to burn it myself because it was infested with linthumbu (red driver ants). Another problem is people trying to throw plastic and other non-organic material into it, because composting food waste is not really a thing here. But it's been going a good six months now without any major issues.

I talk to the kids about the compost a lot (or composti, as they call it here), and how it is important to feed it organic matter. I tell them, "Ali ndi njala. Akufuna kudya masamba, zipatso, maudzu ndi zomera zambiri!" (It is hungry. It wants to eat many leaves/vegetables, fruits, grasses and plants!) That always cracks them up. Then they run, laughing, all the way to the compost pile with their leaves, orange peels and sugarcane fibers to "feed" it.

Today my landlord was repairing my fence, and as he left he took a whole wheelbarrow full of the compost for his garden. He said it was very good material. I was so proud! It showed me that he saw the value in what I was doing, which means a lot. He is a dedicated farmer with a lot of farmland around us, so I'm glad he will be making good use of it. Hopefully he will start his own compost pile now too.

Crazy creatures in the "bathroom"

Living in the village in Malawi, I actually don't have a bathroom. I have an outdoor latrine and an outdoor bathing area. They are on different sides of the yard from each other. Both structures are made of brick with a tin roof.

Everytime I go to use the bafa (that's Chichewa for bathing area), I do a quick snake check now. That's because a few months ago when I went to go take my bucket bath, I heard a weird noise. But I hear lots of weird noises in there, so I wasn't too worried. Until I saw something kinda big moving in the corner. After retrieving my flashlight and shining it into the corner, I found the source of the noise-- a snake, weaving back and forth, with it's hood out like a cobra! I told my neighbors, and they promptly assembled a crowd of 20 and got their machetes to kill it. They're good like that. The kids had a grand old time putting it's body on a stick and scaring each other with it.

And that's not the only thing I have seen in the bafa. Over these past two years, I have seen all all of the following in the chim (latrine), bafa or both, at one time or another:

cobra-looking snake
cave cricket

army ants
flat spiders
blister beetles
giant snails
large black millipedes
probably over a dozen different species of ants
giant cockroaches

carpenter beetles
wasps
lizards
at least five different species of flies
toads

the face of one of the little neighbor boys, through the needlessly large window in the bafa, once he realized I was in there (this only happened once, right after I moved in)

Try peeing with this thing staring at you. It's a blister beetle. Locally they call it something in Chichewa that translates as "The Urinator" because it pees on you and causes blisters to form on the skin

I am not going to miss sharing my "bathroom" with flora and fauna, that's for sure. Indoor plumbing was definitely one of humanity's more convenient inventions. But a latrine is pretty nice to have in a drought.

Hiking Mulanje

I’ve lived in the Mulanje District of southern Malawi for almost two years. The mountain range here provides a stunning backdrop for my life in the village. Whether I am drinking tea and watching the sunrise, teaching a class, taking a trip to the Boma, or even just bathing, the mountains are always there. Still, living near them and hiking them are really different, and I have been wanting to go up there since I moved here. This past weekend I finally made the trek up there with my PCV friends Sheila and Talya.

Me, Sheila and Talya on the trail

We did the hike over three days with our guide, Steve. Steve is a local that knows these trails well, and has guided lots of PCVs on this hike.

The first day we hiked from Likhubula on the Skyline Path, a shorter but steeper route. Emphasis on the steep. It felt like uphill for hours. This was the most difficult part of the hike. Lots of stops to catch our breath. I felt like I didn't get to enjoy the scenery as much because I was so tired from the hike.

We stopped at a creek for lunch around 12:30pm, where there were linthumbu (army ants) all about. I guess they like this more forested area. Then we continued on to the Chisepo Hut. Luckily the latter half of the hike was not as steep. Around 5:00 we finally reached the hut where we would spend the night.

This is the view from the Chisepo Hut:

There are several huts located at different places throughout the mountains. Each hut has a caretaker that brings water and firewood to the hut. Inside there are tables, chairs, a fireplace and mattresses. So all you need to bring in your pack is food and clothes and sleeping gear.

It was really beautiful up there. You could see for miles (or kilometres for those on the metric system). Sheila took this photo at one of the many scenic overlooks.

The second morning Sheila and Talya hiked up to the summit, Sapitwa, which is 3002 km high. I hung out at the hut and recovered from the first day. Then we hiked back to Chambe Hut by a slightly different path then what we took the day before. It wasn't as difficult, but I was still pretty beat up from the previous day's hike, so I was really glad when we spotted our hut as we rounded the last hill.

The Chambe Hut seemed really new and well-insulated. It even had these cool triple bunkbeds to sleep on. I got the middle spot.

The last day we hiked from Chambe Hut back to Likhubula on a longer, but less steep trail. It was still plenty steep though it was downhill, and I my feet were pretty sore by the end of it. We stopped for a break at this gorgeous waterfall.

And then we were finished.

To celebrate the completion of our hike we stopped for pizza and Cokes at Mulanje Pepper in Chitakale.

It's been two days since the hike, and I'm still really sore. Plus I have these monster blisters on my feet, like this one

All in all, I would say it was a very challenging hike. Sometimes miserable, sometimes beautiful, sometimes wonderful, but at least I always had good company. I'm glad I did it, and I'm also glad it's over. Now if only those blisters would heal!

Praying for Rain

"Upon us all, a little rain must fall..." --Led Zeppelin, The Rain Song

After a late start in December, the rains stopped just as suddenly as they began. Since the New Year there has only been one or two real solid rains in my village. The maize is starting to dry out, as you can see in this photo.

It's not just dry either. It has been hot and windy as well, further drying the maize. A common past time here is looking at the dark clouds in the distance, and hoping for a thunderstorm. But other than a few overcast and muggy days, the clouds haven't produced anything significant for us.

The kids and I prepared my garden bed for planting this week, and now I'm just waiting for a little rain before I get the seeds in the ground. I could just water them in by hand, but the linthumbu (red driver ants) are roaming around in large numbers, and with it being so dry, I'm worried about creating a little oasis that might attract them to my yard again. So I'm waiting for one good storm.

It's crazy to think that last year at this time, there were floods in southern Malawi. People died in high flood waters, rivers overflowed, bridges washed out, and many people lost their homes and crops. Now we are in danger of the other extreme. But it's not too late yet.

So here in Malawi, we're all praying for rain.

Of Mouserats, army ants and other small creatures

Earlier this week I prepared my second attempt at a Mouserat trap, using a design I found on the web in a rare moment of somewhat working internet. I baited it with peanut butter and oatmeal. The idea was that the mouse crawls into the tube to get the bait, and its weight makes the tube fall into the bucket. I filled the bucket about halfway with water, hoping it would drown. Otherwise it would just climb out. (Large bins are not easy to come by in the village.)

As I was doing that, the kids knocked on my gate. They had news for me-- the linthumbu (red driver ants) were back. Sure enough, we found them all over the grass in my yard, concentrated in the now abandoned termite mounds. (The termites left once the heat wave started up again). Great.

I put poison out where the ants were, getting bit on the toe by one of the large soldier ants in the process. Curse words did follow.

Then I saw this cool caterpillar by my house. Normally I might have tried to move it elsewhere to save my seedlings, but it's been so dry that I haven't planted anything yet. So it can chew on the weeds all it wants.

While I was inspecting the caterpillar, a little frog or toad hopped by in the dirt. It was the size of the tip of my thumb.

While I surveyed the ants in the fading light, a mosquito kept insistently buzzing near my ear. It's about that time of year again, I guess. First flies, then mosquitos.

Unfortunately, the Mouserat trap failed. The tube just fell into the bucket of water. I used a toilet paper tube for it, but I think maybe the tube was too small. As a Mouserat, it's bigger than most mice. So I will have to find a bigger substitute. The Mouserat seems angry at its near capture, as it is making a ton of noise tonight, and knocking over all kinds of stuff. Maybe it is hoping to keep me awake so that I will be too tired to try and trap it tomorrow night. Pretty good plan, actually.

All this, on top of normal stuff like cooking, doing dishes and lesson planning. I love nature, but I wouldn't mind a little less of it around my house right now.

And the army ants are back

When I pictured living in Malawi, I imagined the wildlife as elephants and hippos and monkeys. The reality is that outside of the National Parks, wildlife is mostly farm animals, birds, lizards and bugs. Emphasis on the bugs.

Maybe it's the heat or the late season dryness, but there are a lot of critters about. I don't mind so much except when it is in my house and my yard. Just in the last couple weeks I've had a snake in the chim, a weird gurgle-growl coming from the bafa where I bathe, a new species of ants in my bedroom, and I've already posted about the exploits of the Mouserat. Plus the usual gang of geckos and house lizards and skinks that are always about. And all the spiders and bees and flies and wasps and lately, crickets and grasshoppers.

This week I found mouse poop in my oatmeal. After I had already eaten a bite. And when I poured out oats from the new box of oats into my bowl, I noticed a few small black ants had found their way in already. But it was just a few so I ate it anyway. Because oats are expensive and it's all protein, right?

Plus there is more. These weird ant-flies have been emerging at dusk out of the cracks in my cement porch for the last month or so. They seem harmless, just kind of gross. They dig out the dirt and then emerge like this.

These termites (chiswe) attempted to build a mound in my yard. The kids made quick work of destroying the tunnel yesterday. They wield a khasu (hoe) like a boss. Incidentally, I asked the kids and they said no, they do not eat these termites. There is another type with big fat heads that are the ones they eat(!)

And last but not least, the linthumbu (army ants) made another appearance. I noticed a thick trail of them a couple weeks ago about 50 meters from my house, but then they were gone. Which is typical of army ants because they are always on the move, foraging and killing everything in their path. Then yesterday the kids knocked on my gate to tell me the linthumbu were back. Great. So the kids brought the kindling, I provided the matches, and many fires were set. My grass has a big burnt patch now and a small tree in my yard got scorched. Unfortunately, that is about all we had to show for our effort because this morning I found a huge thick trail of them in my yard, just a meter or two away from my porch. I had never seen so many in one place. They were forming those thick mats where they are crawling on top of each other, like in the pictures you see online. My very own National Georgaphic special. Obviously fires weren't enough. So I got out the poison and I dusted the area where they were most concentrated in, but it seemed so futile. There were so many of them and I kept seeing more and more of them in other areas. It was really muggy too so I retreated hopelessly inside. And then I prayed. And texted Colii. But guess what-- I checked again this afternoon though and they appear to have moved on. I am so thankful!

I tried to get photos, but they didn't turn out because it was too dark. I did get this one of the larger army ant though (the soldier, maybe) wandering around on my porch. It was hard to take because when I would get close he kept making a beeline for me. Creepy. He is about 2 cm long.

Here is the colony when they were blazing through my path to school a couple weeks ago. Notice the larger soldiers like in the above photo, plus the more numerous small workers. At least, I think that is the difference.

All I want for Christmas is an army ant and mouserat-free home and yard. The lizards can stay and I'm mostly okay with all the other things. What do you think, Santa?

Attack of the Army Ants, Part 2: The Return

Last week I woke up early, with plans to make a cup of tea and enjoy a quiet morning where I didn’t have to rush off to school first thing. Malawi had other plans for me though. The linthumbu, the army ants, were back. They had a trail near my bafa (outdoor bathing area) and garden. So fires were made at key locations where they were coming out of the ground, and I put poison around the perimeter of my house where I remembered seeing them last time, and I sprayed much Doom bug spray in my bedroom, kitchen and guest room where they had invaded last time. And I prayed. And texted Colii, of course.

All that day I kept checking for more signs of them, but the coast was clear… until that evening. Which seems to be their way. They like to go on the move at night. I set this fire in my garden over several of their holes. And then had to set a few more. My poor garden is really taking a hit from these things.

The problem with army ants is that they can tunnel under the ground, so you chase them away in one place and they just make a new tunnel and come up somewhere else.  Here is a photo of one of their tunnel entrances in my yard. I still have these all over my yard from the last invasion, and everytime I see them they give me the shivers.

They ended up coming back the next day, making a thick trail along my gate in my garden and into the grass near my fence. I set more fires, put out more poison, and prayed for the best. It has been over a week now, and I haven't seen them back yet. I inspected my garden  and I saw three different kinds of ants hanging out there, which is a good sign. They would not be there if the linthumbu were anywhere nearby.

So here's hoping that will be my last brush with the red driver ants of Malawi. I've still got my can of Doom next to my bed though, just in case.

Attack of the Army Ants, Part I: Initial Invasion

Did I ever mention that back in July my house was invaded by ants? And not just any ants—army ants. I guess I was trying to block it out.

It started late at night. I was texting Colii and I heard all this rustling in my bedroom, much more than the normal lizards and birds and mice crawling around. When I turned on the flashlight I saw hundreds of ants in a thick trail crawling down my wall and under my bed. Also huge ants were dropping from the roof into my room, which is when I started really freaking out (I was so naïve back then). I bolted out of my mosquito net, grabbed a can of Doom bug spray and sprayed a ton of it around my bed. Then I picked a few ants out of my hair(!), crawled back into my mosquito net and prayed. At that point, I just knew that ants were in my house. I figured they might be going after my food, but most of it is in Ziploc bags anyway, so I wasn’t too worried. I actually tried to go to sleep after that (see, ignorance really is bliss).

The next morning when I woke up, the ants had left my room. However, they had just relocated to two other rooms in my house. More terror and Doom spraying ensued. Then I heard someone knocking at my gate, and when I went to answer it, I felt something painful on my foot. And then another. When I looked down, I saw I was standing in a trail of the ants. Many expletives were said as I jumped back and tried to knock them off my feet. (They are tenacious. They grab ahold of skin and just won’t let go. And it really hurts.)

It was my landlord at the gate, and as soon as he saw them, he recognized them and prescribed fire. He starting setting fire to all the ant trails that were visible, and created fires over all their little holes in the ground. It caused most of the ants to move away. (And burned up a good chunk of my garden. Oh well.)

Here is a photo of the ants in my garden. Sorry the photos aren’t very good, but it was hard to stay in one place for more than a few seconds because they kept biting me. And as I said, it really hurt.

This photo shows these bigger ants that seem to travel alongside the thick trail of the army ants. I'm not sure if they are queens or what. These were the ones that were dropping from the ceiling onto my bedroom.

For the next two days my neighbors and I continued battling the ants with fire and bug spray and an insecticide powder I bought in the market. After all that my house was mostly ant-free, my compost piles had been torched and there were charred spots all over my yard. But the ants were still coming up in different places in my yard. And then it was time for me to go to a PC training in Blantyre. So I took one last look at my ant-infested yard and departed, leaving it in the hands of my neighbors.

While I was away I did a little research on the ants. I discovered that there are many different species of army ants. I think these are red driver ants. Locally they are known as linthumbu. They travel in large colonies consisting of millions of predatory ants, killing almost everything in their path. My Deputy Head Teacher said they have been known to swarm and take down a live chicken. (And these things were in my bedroom!) Once they have wiped out all the food sources in an area, they move on to another spot. After they left my house I noticed a suspicious lack of lizards and spiders, so I was wondering if they chased them away and/or killed them.

When Colii and I arrived at my house in mid-July, it was the first time I had been back since the army ant invasion. I really didn’t know what to expect. I cautiously checked everything out, and the coast appeared clear. There was some kind of ant infestation on the guest mattress, but we Doomed it and they went away. Luckily they weren’t army ants. So we enjoyed our time at my site, as you can see in her blog posts about our vacation in Malawi together. I hoped that would be the last time I would ever see linthumbu. Unfortunately, that was not to be.